Tuesday, July 28, 2015

Gearing Up My Mental Game

After doing all the research that went into finding an itinerary for our island tour, one thing became very clear: I suddenly had a lot of expectations. Whether they came from glowing descriptions and pictures of our destinations, or my own glorious imagination, I'm not sure, but suddenly my stress level was ticking up a few notches.

I've tried to dial it back by re-setting my thinking.

I WILL BE IN TAIWAN WITH MY FAMILY FOR 3 MONTHS!

Can I let that fact alone be cool enough to not fret about missing something cool? Or be chill if we're having a day when we're too tired to optimize our experiences? Or hold it together if we are delayed or lost? I hope so!

I hope to not get caught up in any agenda so much that I miss being present in the magic of being with my kids as they not only experience a new country and culture, but one of MY favorite countries and people?

We ARE there long enough to take in deep, long drinks at the fountain of a life-altering experience. There will be time to speak, to be out-going, to chase down really cool, fleeting opportunities. And there will be time to let some pass by us too.

The BEST thing about children is their exhistence in the utter present. I hope they rub off on me, and I hope I don't inhibit them from experiencing every magical moment!

Sunday, July 26, 2015

The Island Tour Itinerary

Imagine for a moment that you were a foreigner traveling to the USA for the first time. You hoped to take in in a few weeks to a few months as much of the country as you could. Beginning from what you knew, your list of places to go and things to see might be quite brief: Disney, Vegas, and New York City. How would you plan? How would you go about discovering that in California you could also take in the Redwoods? That from Disney to Vegas, you could swing by the Grand Canyon? What is the optimized way to cross the vast West and Midwest? What on earth is between Vegas and New York, and what of all of it is worth seeing? How might you come to discover that Boston is near New York City, and IF you could find out about any of the historical significance of Boston, would you even be able to appreciate it without a good lesson in American history? Would you think to visit Washington, DC? How about it's neighboring historically rich destinations?

Now imagine adding to the challenge of getting to know a whole country so well that in your imagined one shot to see all the U.S. and soak it all in, that you planned to do and see it all, or as much of it as you possibly could, with 4 kids in tow, ages 12-3. Not only would you need to figure out how to make each destination memorable and meaningful to the span of interests and attention capacities, but you must also add to your schedule adequate down-time so littler people don't become so unpleasant that the whole experience is lessened for everyone

That is the challenge I've embarked on: to know Taiwan like the back of my hand - to know not only what it has to offer, but what experiences will mean the most to my family and to pull it all of in such a way that we can stay rested, healthy, happy, and engaged for about 20 days.

And I'm pleased to announce after months of study that I have a plan! Click here to see the map! I look forward to reporting on the successes and failures of this plan. But here is a brief preview of where we are going and why. (There are rest days, down days, cultural days, entertainment days, and travel days mixed into these destinations. I'll share here only the destinations, as I'm sure I'll be commenting on each as we experience them in the context of how rested, or exhausted, or sick of seeing temples, or hiking, or whatever else we are at the moment of the experience.)

First stop: Travel Recovery.
We leave in the morning one day and arrive in the evening of the next day. Some of that length is accounted for by crossing the international date line, but nevertheless the journey is long and will be exhausting, AND we will need to adjust our bodies to being awake when we were used to being asleep, and sleeping when the folks at home are awake. I've chosen to stay near the airport for this recovery period, first because I wanted to get to beds and space as soon after arriving as possible. Secondly, car rentals near the airport are most convenient, so the farther we get from it, the more hassle it will be to get our family into a vehicle. (We will not be renting a car when we first arrive. I shudder to think of managing tired selves and tired kids at night for the first time in Taiwan's CRAZY traffic.) We're taxiing to our beds, and will probably taxi back to the airport to get the car.

Destination One: Lugang.
After (hopefully) getting our feet under ourselves, we drive about 1.5 hours south to the city of Lugang. Lugang is called a "living museum." It was once the most used harbor between Taiwan and China. I've read this city is used often as the set for historical films, as many of the buildings from the Qing dynasty (400 years ago) have been preserved or restored. So I hope we might feel a bit like time travelers as we walk down Old Market Street where merchants have sold their wares for centuries; enjoy Breast Touching Lane (what!?) - a street so narrow two people can't pass without, well, rubbing breasts; and visit the Folk Arts Museum (home to daily-life artifacts now, but home to a Japanese Imperial Scholar when it was built) and the Longshan Temple (built in the late 1700's!).

Destination Two: Sun Moon Lake
Sun Moon Lake is the largest body of fresh water in Taiwan, but that, of course, is not why we are going. Hop on, hop off boat rides, beautiful vistas, a gondola ride, and an aboriginal cultural village/amusement park with aboriginal themed shows of singing and dancing (maybe similar to the Polynesian Cultural Center in Hawaii?) sounded a bit touristy, yes, but SO my kids' kind of thing!

Destination Three: Alishan
Modern development of this mountain region began with the Japanese occupation of Taiwan. The Japanese built a narrow-gauge railway up the mountain to access the cypress trees. This railroad still operates today (though for tourist and not logging purposes) and it's ascent through 3 climate zones (tropical, sub-tropical, to temperate forest) is only rivaled by similar lines in the Chilean Andes and the Indian Himalayas. So a ride is an obvious bucket-list item. We'll also hit surrounding day trips to amazing hikes, tea plantations, a train museum, and a grove of square bamboo!

Destination Four: Tainan
I'm excited to hit Tainan because of our Dutch heritage on both sides. This city, Taiwan's oldest, was first settled by Fujianese in the late 1600's. The Dutch came when the Qing dynasty booted them off the Penghu islands, and it was the Dutch who encouraged Chinese immigration here by their trade. (Eventually the Dutch were defeated by a Ming general, Koxinga, who had been defeated by the Qing on the mainland, and who hoped to get back to the mainland and keep the Ming in power. Foreshadowing for Taiwan's political future?) Anyway, we hope to hit Taiwan's first Confucius Temple, the Chihkan Towers - a fort with foundations laid by the Dutch, the Anping Fort - lost by the Dutch to Koxinga after a 9 month battle, a handful of temples and the Anping Tree House - a former merchant house overtaken entirely by a banyan tree strangling it's walls (experiencing first hand why the Little Prince was so diligent about guarding against these trees).

Destination Five: Kending
This is another stop for the kids (and for adults to REST) summed up in one word: BEACHES. I don't know how my kids can be the beach bums they are. They didn't get it from me. I'm bored at a beach after about one hour. But I LOVE watching them play in the sand, and in the water. And maybe after our adventures to this point, sitting and watching other people entertain themselves will be about all I can handle.

Destination Six: Yuli.
This one was almost skipped. We were going to take the drive from the southern tip of Kenting all the way to the national treasure, Taroko Gorge in one swoop, but counsel from friends and the insight on a friend's blog who had done Taiwan with HER family convinced me we needed a stop. A few in fact. On our way up the east coast, we'll stop off at Chihben to see the trees, and at the Platform of the Three Immortals (a series of arched bridges leading to a coral island) and finally to Yuli and the Walami Trail. My friend raved about this hike and the Lonely Planet book calls it a must-do. Apparently not only is it kid-friendly (my kind of hike!) but "along the path there are high waterfalls suspension bridges, lookouts, sections cut straight into the cliff walls, and the constant sound and occasional sight of monkeys crashing through" the jungle. COOL!!! We may add stops (another beach, an observation tower?) once we get back down to the ocean side highway on our way north.

Destination Seven: Taroko Gorge
I took my mom here when she and I came to Taiwan. I knew I needed to return with Q, and he and I hiked and hitch-hikes all around for days in this gorge. It is lovely! It is an 18km, marble-walled canyon cut by the deep blue Liwu River. Words fail to describe the beauty and camera lenses can't capture the stunning panorama and height, contrasted with the deep blue of the water, the white of the marble cliffs, and the green of the jungle clinging to them.

Final stop: National Center for Traditional Arts
This place brings 1920's Taiwan back to to life with street performances, parades, and artisans that let you try your hand at their craft. LP called it a "must-see" for anyone interested in folk-art and customs. Think Chinese operas, dance, acrobatics, and even toy-making!

NO Taipei? If you've heard of Taiwan or ever been for business, chances are Taipei is where you spent your time. It's the largest city and the capitol. Yes, we get to Taipei too. We're staying just outside it in a city linked to Taipei by the MRT (mass rapid transit). Once we settle in the north, we can use public transportation to take in weeks and weeks worth of other destinations. Some of those include Taipei 101 (the world's second tallest building), Baby Boss (a museum for little people to try on contemporary careers like airline captain, news broadcaster, or beautician), the National Palace Museum (home to all the art and artifacts stolen by the KMT from the Imperial Palace and Forbidden City in Beijing as they fled China), the Mormon Temple, and Chiang Kai-shek's Memorial hall and park (think Lincoln Memorial but with different historical figure). AND our home base backs up on the Yangmingshan National Park (more hikes, hot springs) and we're around the corner from a puppet museum and Fort San Domingo (which passed from the Spanish to the Dutch to the Chinese to the Brittish to the Japanese, who kept it closed through WWII after which the Brittish resumed using it as a consolate until 1972!).

So goal is to get in all the rest in our first 20 to 21 days. Phew! Pray for us! I'm nervous about driving. Q pointed out the vehicle we'll drive, seating all 7 of us will be one of the biggest on the road, so if we can stay alive, pray we don't kill any crazy scooter driver trying to zoom past. Pray we stay well enough to keep up the pace, and that we don't get lost! We'll be praying to have the time of our lives and create a meaningful and memorable experience for our kids! We have our work cut out for us!

Saturday, July 18, 2015

Tiny Taste of Taiwan

This past Wednesday the kids and I went to visit old friends from our Cottonwood Heights days. Shortly after we moved to Cache Valley, they moved to Draper. It was fun to catch up and see them again. Of course, only Big Bro remembered their family, but the kids were in HEAVEN anyway. They had horses, which the kids got to ride, and Stew played on the tramp, with their scooters, with their balls, and basically got to do everything he loves.

The timing of our visit was perfect, as it also coincided with the 1 week stay of exchange guests from China. When my friend told them she was having friends over, their older guest, Snow, offered to make Chinese dumplings for everyone. It was it's whole own adventure.

Snow proudly displays her work!
Making dumplings is what one often does with company in China. Why this is, I don't know, but everyone enjoys one another's company as they stuff, seal, and then cook the dumplings. Snow was dealing with a house-full of novice dumplings enthusiasts, and was amused by our efforts. I was the most experienced dumpling stuffer - I'd probably done this a handful of other times - but my skills paled in comparison to Snow's. She was fast, she knew multiple techniques, and her work was beautiful.

I don't know that Veeve or Weese tried their hand at dumplings. Big Bro gave it a whirl and lost interest after a few (or maybe the horses were calling). But when it came to eating, our group of 14 handily polished probably over 100 dumplings off in no time. They were delicious. Most were fried because they weren't up to the standard of holding together boiled - we needed Snow's skills to make them boil-worthy. The rest of the group seemed to prefer the fried ones, but me and my kids liked boiled best!

Seeing my kids down the dumplings made me really excited to share with them all of the amazing food Taiwan has to offer. But there was more fun to come! As we were preparing to leave, Snow came over to Veeve and began touching her hair! "It's so beautiful, so thick, so soft," she was remarking in Chinese. She played with it, pulled it back with her hands into a ponytail. This had to be one of my best highlights from the evening. For years, we have been telling the kids of all the funny reactions to white foreigners Asians have. We have warned them when we go that they will be held, poked, prodded, and in a ton of pictures with strangers. It was HILARIOUS to see Veeve react to this for the first time. She smiled, and even laughed. I think she felt silly, and I think it completely blew her mind that of our stories were NOT exaggerated! Her reaction was so cute, I'm sure she is going to love Taiwan, and boy, is Taiwan going to love her!

We got held up with goodbye's and chatting nearer the door and the kids took a moment to sit down at the piano and play it. That prompted more pictures by Snow (who almost didn't eat the dumplings she'd slaved over, she was so busy taking pictures and video of US eating) and this was Weese's moment to shine. Rather than any frustration that she was being posed by a Chinese woman she didn't know who seemed very excited to cram the frame with as many kids as she could, Weese stuck pose after pose, smiling her best smiles and having a ball - like it was her private photo shoot.

The kids' Chinese may have a way to go, but the evening was great proof they are ready for much of the adventure awaiting in Taiwan!

Friday, July 17, 2015

Meet the Travelers

You may know and already love the people below. Here's how I know them and more about why they are so loved.

An old pic, but it captures his heavenly influence nicely!
Big Bro: Just turned 12 and woke us up early on his birthday, excited to show us his first zit - a true sign of puberty! He may be the closest thing to a teen we have, but he is also the best big brother we've ever met or known. He plays with, looks after, and sets an amazing example for the rest of the herd. Q and I are convinced the measure of peace and love in our family is due in large part to our number one son.

He loves reading and writing fantasy. He loves science and knowing all the crazy science facts that blow the rest of our minds. He is great with people and has a quiet goodness and strength. Big bro is a friend to everyone and wants to do what is right. And he wants a souvenir of everywhere we go. This may be interesting because his closet is already full of his "stuff."

Veeve AND Weese, selling their doughnut socks at the imaginary Sugar Cooks Cafe!
Veeve: Turning 9 in July, she is my current favorite child. (Just kidding! Sheesh!) But she HAS been blowing me away these days. If you've followed Veeve stories from the past you may be surprised to know that she has quite a mellow soul. But she is STILL brimming with personality. She is a natural song writer and has written a good many that top the charts of our family's favorite things to sing. She loves playing the piano, and she has a dance for any occasion. (She has proven this again and again, finding a dance for every request her dad throws at her, like "Now show me the excited-to-brush-my-teeth dance.") She seems to be content no matter what the day throws at her - she's up for yard-work, playing Barbies for hours, being with friends, or reading on her own. She is ALWAYS dreaming up new games and working on new creations. And she is a great sister to her younger sibs.

Weese: Six JUST BEFORE we go, she is a lover! Weese makes friends everywhere we go, and sometimes with people that surprise us. She still sits in church by one of the leaders from a nursery class when she was 3 and terrified of nursery. She has a great many older friends (and by older I mean grandparent age) because she is so loving to anyone who will smile and chat with her. In addition to her insatiable need for a playmate (thank-goodness for loving older sisters!) she has a surprisingly dry sense of humor. Where her older sis can be quite wacky, Weese busts our sides with her eye rolls and mutterings under her breath. I wrote a children's book called "50 Things to Whine About" inspired by conversations with Weese. We'll see if she outgrows inspiring the sequels to it by trip's end.

Stew: The quintessential rambunctious, all-American 3 year old boy - this boy's blond hair, dark brown eyes, and smile will melt hearts! Thankfully for him, we've learned when he attacks you it means he wants to play. Thankfully for us, he's learned he doesn't like getting in trouble. Despite his rough-housing maneuvers playing offense, Stew has a sensitive side that can get pretty upset if mommy is "mad to me" or "mean to me." He isn't quite convinced he's ready to graduate from being a baby. And I'm not sure I'm ready to give up on his snuggles, sweet kisses, whispers in my ear, "Mommy, I love you so much," or his fetish with holding my hair. He also LOVES cars, planes, stories, and baseball.

Steff: I'm the voice and historian of this crazy family, trying to preserve for my own poor memory a taste of all our lives, but especially such momentous adventures! I like writing and speaking - probably mostly because I LOVE telling other people what I think. But I also like NOT being around other people. Most people are shocked I'm an introvert, and I myself am surprised by how much I love a loud and crazy country like Taiwan.

Q: The paterfamilias and candidate for father of the year, Q has been so immensely supportive of this idea. He has faithfully studied Chinese, wrangling the best resources to supplement our Chinese efforts from the internet, and he's making sure the kids are eating right and exercising so we can handle anything Taiwan can throw at us. Like any good father, he is stressed about the cost. But he seems to be balancing that worry with the surety that this is moving boldly in the direction of the dreams we've had for our family. He's even so cutely researched how we can stay LONGER in Taiwan, blowing me away with his confidence that we will love it. I hope this trip for him is an incredible recharge, and a much needed unplugging from the business cares he's lived in the thick of for most of our married lives.

Rachel: If you are wondering how you didn't know about our oldest daughter, it's because this beautiful gal doesn't belong to us. But she does belong WITH us and we're delighted to have her along. Our family goes way back with Rachel. She was the sitter for the kids on a weekly basis when she was 13. I was her first ballet teacher, and recently she came to work for me as a ballet assistant when my classes filled up and I needed an extra hand. Rachel is darling with kids and easy to get a long with (sometimes rare qualities for a 17 year old). What I didn't know is that she has had a life-long fascination with Asia. She's coming because as we were excitedly telling her parents, our good friends, about our journey, her mom joked, "Want to take Rachel with you?" "Sure!" I joked back, and because she was standing right there, jokingly asked, "Want to drop out of your senior year come with our family to Taiwan for 3 months?" She laughed and said "Sure!" And then we all looked at one another and the light-bulb went on! WHY NOT?

So Rachel makes 7 travelers in all! What a crew! Watch out Taiwan, here we come!

Travel Practice

This month (July) we have spent largely in Salt Lake. Big Bro has been living there with Grandmother in Mark and Dana's space to participate in daily Ballet West classes, but the rest of the kids and I travel to Salt Lake City every Tuesday for Veev's Ballet West class. We then stay through her second class on Thursday before heading home. We followed a similar schedule last year in the summer but stayed Monday through Thursday.

It's a lot of traveling, but it hasn't been a lot of dancing for Veeve. That means we have left-over time in Salt Lake to do fun activities and go places. And THAT has meant great travel practice, which is what our physical preparation for this month has been all about.

In preparation for our island tour when we are going to a new place almost every other night, first we practiced "keeping track of our stuff and keeping our space clean." I stressed to them that they MUST put clothes away when they take them off, or the clothes will be left. And I told them if we clean our sleeping space every morning, we will be able to easily see if we got everything before we leave. Or, in the case that we return for a night, a made bed and easy access to our pajamas will feel so much more welcoming! AND I reminded them that I would have enough to worry about, so hoping-mom-notices-and-grabs-my-stuff-for-me is not an option.

Next, we practiced "getting up and getting out." I told the kids that we wouldn't, and in some cases couldn't, cook breakfast as we tour the island of Taiwan. So the best plan for filling their hungry bellies was to get up, get dressed, clean their sleeping space, and get ready to get out the door for yummy Taiwan breakfast bought on the street. Mmmm. My mouth is already watering. That week we practiced getting ready FIRST instead of lounging about or playing as I cooked breakfast.

This week's focus has been on quickly and precisely "following instructions." In Taiwan with a train to catch, or with a scooter zooming by, or in the press of a crowd, we can't afford for kids to not listen, to not stay close, to not keep up or to run ahead, or whatever the specific instruction is. I happily took treats away as we practiced and failed the first few times. As the kids threw their little tantrums that they weren't getting their 50 cents of ice cream, I lovingly explained possible consequences we might face in a foreign country: them being hit by crazy traffic, or lost around no one who speaks English. I told them I rather have them sad now than dead, kidnapped, or traumatized. They got it and modified behavior fast. Even Stew put up with being on his monkey leash and seemed to like it.

The kids are quite accustomed to the drive to Salt Lake and I do very little to entertain them. Blessedly, unless we get incredibly lost, we have few stretches of driving in Taiwan that will be much longer than getting to Grandmother's house. And I imagine in a foreign country, what they can see out the window may be incredibly engrossing. But hanging in for the flight, not to mention 19 hours of travel, may be a different story. We may practice self-entertaining while sitting one week. I will probably combine this one with no whining or complaining. (They are pretty good at this one too, if I can keep them rested and fed.)

We also need to practice the buddy system: Big Bro entertaining, keeping track and meeting the needs of Stew, and Veeve doing the same for Weese.

Finally, we will practice "Everybody helps." When we get to our destination, we ask what we can unload, take in, get out, or otherwise do to be useful, working as a team instead of scattering and leaving it all to mom and dad.

Some of these "practice sessions" were repeats from the Florida list, but most are the things I hadn't thought of then, that I recognized we needed, or recognize now we do need for a smoother foreign travel experience. These short trips to Salt Lake and the trip to Florida have been FABULOUS practice! It's a big deal to take a family of 6 half-way around the world to see and experience life like they never have before. It makes sense that practice will improve our experience - that little tastes of public transportation, or big cities, or long flights, or being responsible, doing what you are asked, and doing it with a smile will truly make this the most amazing adventure ever!